Breakfast at last year's gastro pub of the year, The Star Inn, North Yorkshire. Photo: Gary Calton.
Not since Michelin announced earlier this week they are to publish in Japan, provoking an international food row about whether the French understand the finer points of cooking sushi, has there been such gastronomical tension in the air.
The reason? Tonight marks the culinary event of the year.
The Observer Food Awards, for which you've been voting in your thousands (some of you winning crates of wine for the effort), are finally announced. Reputations are made and undone, false smiles are readied as chefs and restaurateurs feign delight when rivals scoop awards from under their finely tuned noses.
The great and good of the foodie world - as well as the foul-mouthed Gordon Ramsay and the cheese man from Blur - will assemble somewhere in west London to announce the winners, give and receive the awards, throw lots of posh food down their throats and guzzle thousands of litres of champagne.
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